Leather Lingo 101: Getting to Know the Good Stuff
If you’ve ever wondered what all the “grain” talk is about or why some leathers age like fine whiskey while others don’t, you’re in the right place. Leather has its own language, and once you speak it, you’ll never look at a bag, wallet, or strap the same way again.
Full-Grain Leather
The top of the top. Full-grain leather is the outermost layer of the hide, the part that lived real life. It still bears its natural surface with all its character: scars, stretch marks, bug bites, and the occasional pasture story. Those tiny imperfections aren’t flaws, they’re proof of authenticity. This is the strongest, most durable cut of leather and it only gets better with time, developing that rich, lived-in patina that collectors (and I) swoon over.
Top-Grain Leather
Just a hair below full-grain, this leather has had its surface lightly sanded or buffed to remove deeper imperfections. It’s a bit more uniform in texture and color, slightly more refined, but it loses a touch of the natural grain character in the process. Think of it as the tidy cousin of full-grain.
Genuine Leather
Despite the name, “genuine” doesn’t mean “the best.” It’s real leather, yes, but made from lower layers of the hide after the top grain has been split away. It’s often corrected, stamped, or coated to mimic higher-quality leather. It has its place for budget-friendly goods, but it won’t last or age the way full-grain does.
Suede
That dreamy, velvety nap comes from the underside of the hide, not the top grain. Suede is soft and flexible, perfect for accents and small goods, but it’s also more delicate and absorbent. Water and suede aren’t the best travel companions.
Nubuck
Nubuck is the bridge between suede and full-grain. It starts as full-grain leather, then gets lightly sanded on the surface for a soft, brushed feel. It keeps the strength of full-grain with the touch of suede — like rugged elegance, in leather form.
Tanning: How Leather Comes to Life
Before leather becomes the beautiful material we work with, it’s “tanned” to preserve and stabilize it. There are a few ways to do this, each with its own feel and story.
Vegetable-Tanned
My personal favorite. Tanned using natural tree barks and plant tannins, this leather is firm at first but softens beautifully with use. It deepens in color, darkens in the sun, and develops that jaw-dropping patina over time. It’s the leather that tells your story as you carry it.
Chrome-Tanned
A modern method using chromium salts. It’s faster to produce and yields a supple, often more colorful leather. You’ll find chrome-tanned hides in softer bags, wallets, and accessories where flexibility matters.
Combination-Tanned
The best of both worlds: a base chrome tan followed by a vegetable re-tan. This results in leather that’s soft and pliable yet ages gracefully and takes on a bit of that veg-tan depth. You’ll find many of my pieces fall into this “combo” camp.
Character, Patina & Care
No two hides are the same, and that’s exactly the point. Tiny scars, healed scratches, and subtle tonal shifts are what make handcrafted leather goods one-of-a-kind. Over time, full-grain and veg-tanned leathers darken, soften, and develop a natural sheen. This patina is a story only use and time can write.
To keep your piece adventure-ready:
- Wipe with a dry or slightly damp cloth when dusty or dirty.
- Avoid soaking or long exposure to direct sunlight or heat.
- Use a gentle leather conditioner every few months (especially in dry climates or after a long road trip).
- And most importantly: use it. The best care is daily carry.
At Doodle & Drift, I work with a mix of high-quality full-grain and top-grain leathers — veg-tan when I can, chrome or combination when the project calls for flexibility. Each hide is chosen for its texture, tone, and personality. Because leather, like life (and travel), is best when it’s full of stories.
Thanks for reading along the journey. Every post from The Drift Journal is a peek behind the bench and beyond the map — where leather meets wanderlust, and every piece has a story to tell.
Curious which leather your Doodle & Drift bag is made from? Explore the collection and see how each hide becomes something timeless. Or learn more about the story behind the hands (and paws) that craft it all.
Want to follow the adventure in real time? Join us on Instagram — @doodleanddriftco for studio updates and @camp.doodle for Airstream travels with Sirius and Frisco.
See you on the trail,
— Kim at Doodle & Drift